Day One – September 20
Picture this: a red passenger train travels east, flying through French pastures, vibrant with strokes of green and gold. Somewhere in the rear cabins, a couple watches, enchanted by its storybook beauty. Shrinking hills climb into staggering mountains capped with a dusting of snow. Fields gently give way to streams and canals, drifting lazily to end up in some lake or river.
Like a dance between human and nature, machine and mother – such was the railway journey to Switzerland.
With their next destination approaching–the well-preserved medieval city of Lucerne–they reflect on their time in Paris and dream of what lay ahead. Eager were they to trade sepia nights and smoky aromas for watercolour mornings and gentle alpine winds.
Golden hour begins to set the countryside aglow, trees gleaming amber as the train slows to a snail’s pace.
We arrive at the village of Merlischachen and hop off the train where we are greeted by a feline friend. As if out of a fairytale, they guide us nearly all the way to our hotel. Walking up to the lobby, I truly cannot believe my eyes. We are actually staying here?! I thought. Gabriel booked this for us, and I know I can always count on him for nothing short of wonderful, yet, I am still in shock.
Inside the hotel we are greeted warmly with offerings of fresh apple cider. Gazing around, I see the walls are adorned with medieval armor accenting the deep brown beams and terracotta toned floors. We get to our room and just outside is THIS view:
Taking in our surroundings and washing them down with cider, I excitedly throw on my swimsuit and dash over to the lake. The water is refreshing, and the cool reprieve washes away all stresses from our long travel day, invigorating and inspiring me.
After a quick dip, Gabriel and I get our glam on and pop across the road to the restaurant for a much needed dinner. I am overcome with awe and nearly cry.
Inside we are welcomed into a wood paneled room, candle-lit with windows open wide to the temperate evening air thickly perfumed with geraniums. On our table are hand-crafted felt hearts and a red gauzy runner – I was swooning, y’all.
Once we sat down we felt overwhelmingly anxious and dizzy. Could it have been the travel day, or possibly the intense energies of the area? Nonetheless, our meal was exquisite and I had the best soup of my life that I still dream of to this day. A soupe de chalet with rich gruyere, caviar (?!), topped with fresh herbs. This Alpine starter certainly sated my need for Swiss cheese.
After we supped, we promptly snoozed, with bellies full and hearts aglow.
noteworthy: hearing the cow bells clanging cheerfully amongst the hills; the mural in the Bern train station; my first ever cross-country train ride; HUGE mushrooms on the tree beside our swimming spot; bats!!!; the quiet solitude; Gabriel’s birthday 🙂
Day Two – September 21
Stepping out onto the patio, I take in the view. I stroll up to the coffee bar in my hotel supplied slippers, brewing one of many espressos. I wander to the lakeside and sit watching the scenery come alive in the morning as the sun undrapes the morning fog and the mountains come into focus.
I find the climate rather similar to that of home – temperate and perfect for growing all kinds of flora, pausing many times to take in the awesome views.
After a few espressos, we made our way into town. First stopping for breakfast, then wandering the streets and popping into shops.
Around each corner we discover a spectacle – ornate fountains, old buildings, fellow travelers etched with excitement to be witnessing the simplest moments.
The ancient Chapel bridge, built in 1332, is known to be Europe’s oldest covered bridge. Architecture-wise, I had never seen anything so old before. It was amazing.
Words can only do so much to recount the magic of Switzerland, I hope someday you may see for yourself if you have not already.
For dinner – perhaps the highlight of our trip – we head over to Caju. I don’t necessarily consider myself a ‘foodie’, but I know good food and atmosphere when I see (eat?) it. The owner, Gustavo, serves us a memorable experience for both our tastebuds and our spirits. We indulged our bellies with homemade fiery chili sauce, which packs a punch, a coarse red-wine sea salt which added a perfect balance of flavour and savour, and meals cooked to perfection. What a delightful shock to find South American cuisine in a rural Swiss town – I sure am glad Gustavo gave up law school to grow his dream into this delectable reality!
noteworthy: feeling like I hopped into a storybook all day long; the details on buildings from medeival times; checking out SiP cafe (sick atmosphere); train rides; thrifting cool finds at The Secondhand, including a perfectly fitting pair of jeans!; sitting by the lake after dinner while some curious swans swam up to say hello
Day Three – September 22
This trip is passing too quickly, and just like that, we are at our last day in Switzerland.
Gabriel takes me to Meggenhorn castle, where we snack on burrata, a cheese plate with the BEST figs, and some coffee (naturally!). By this point, I am feeling tired from our active week of wonderful but busy adventures, so I will be the first to admit, I may not have been the most pleasant travel partner.
I could easily paint this trip as perfect, but I won’t. I want to share the moments as they unfolded – with raw human-ness and clumsy calamities. I was in a lot of pain, as an ankle injury flared up on our first day in Paris. That, coupled with anxiety and hunger, made me a pretty grumpy gal.
That being said, once we ate and saw some wild nature, I felt a bit better. The gardens at the castle were exquisite and I left feeling inspired.
We decide to walk down to the water to see what awaits us and to try to catch a ferry back ‘home’. On the way, there is a farm with many animals, a playground, and an orchard. We walk into the barn, and upon seeing the beautiful mama pig with her sweet babies, I begin to sob. I am overtaken by the sheer size of the mom and the ways the babies and her interacted – clambering around on their tiny trotters, sweet mama watching over them carefully – it was a top-ten moment.
We catch a ferry back, and exhaustion starts to take over. I now know that snacks are crucial when I travel. (Cheese, nuts, fruit, water, and of course, coffee are some good reccs for future me)!
Though we debate staying the rest of our trip in our little village on the lakeside, we ultimately decide it is time to continue our travels and make our way that following morning to our last stop – Germany!
Switzerland will always hold a piece of my heart.
noteworthy: all the flowers, plants, and critters; the views from the ferry; succumbing to the sheer exhaustion at the end of the day.
Until next time,
M.
Artemis Musings 
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