It is a paradox – it is filthy, yet luxurious; it is disgusting, but astounding. It is resplendently, fabled, without-a-doubt – Paris.

This city stole a piece of my heart I didn’t even realize was there until I left it behind. Akin to a toxic relationship, it toys with your feelings and makes you question everything. You think, why am I still here? It’s smelly, expensive, and crowded!!!

Then, all at once, while reveling in the delicate, buttery layers of a croissant paired with your third shot of espresso, your gaze lifts to the faded cream and grey laden streets and muse – because it’s Paris.

To be there is to see the world through the eyes of a writer, an artist, a flaneur. A city so rich that you can hear the cobblestones whispering tales of time gone by. A delightfully exciting paramour to the sometimes monotonous life back home.

Day One

We began our European voyage with a memorable bus ride to the Seattle airport. Our driver was nothing short of personable and kind. I could feel excitement begin to bubble as I listened to Gabriel and him banter while the coastal scenery flew by.

From Seattle we traveled first to Reykjavik. During the flight, we watched as the Northern Lights danced across a brightening sky above Greenland. Our hearts were already full!

When we landed in Iceland, on the brief bus ride from tarmac to the terminal, I fell in love. The landscape was unforgettable and worth staying for more than a layover.

Onwards, we went to Paris!

Upon touchdown, we found ourselves roaming the CDG airport for the proper taxi area – one thing I didn’t consider! If you go to Paris, ensure you find the designated space in order to avoid a scam. As we waited exhausted and sardined in the glass corridor for our taxi, foreign voices echoed around us and horns blared to the tune of laissez-faire road rage.

Day Two

In the morning, we took ourselves down to the nearest patisserie, and filled our jet-lagged bellies with many an espresso and the buttery, flaky layers of Parisian pastries. Surrounding us were endless well-dressed folk, well-dressed buildings, and well-kempt gardens.

Gabriel and I strolled through Parc Monceau, home to wild parakeets, marvelous structures, and fantastical garden displays, just a few blocks from our hotel.

Later, we perused the infamous Champs-Élysées. It was heart-wrenching to witness the magnificence and luxury of the infamous avenue; so much richness, yet still there remains evidence of wealth disparity of economic inequality.

As a cap to our day, we were lucky to enjoy a meal in a nearby bistro followed by a walk to the grocer for some wine & snacks.

noteworthy: going to Sephora, where Gabriel got me a very special engraved lipstick case from Guerlain; eating so many croissants; admiring the Parisian architecture and fashion.

Day Three

Perhaps my favourite day of our Parisian escapade was spent exploring Montmartre.

Located in the 18th arrondissment at the tip-top of a hill lives an artist’s paradise – the proverbial cherry on top of our European sundae. Van Gogh, Renoir, Picasso, artists big and small have named this hilltop home, or at least a place to practice their craft.

First on our list was a trip to the delightful Coeur Coffee Roasters – a coffee shop garnered with glowing reviews on Google. Personable and skilled, the barista offered us local dinner recommendations and a perfect cup of joe!

Truth be told, I found the coffee scene in Paris to be average. As it seems to be based around baked goods (rightfully so), espresso often takes second place. My belief was shattered though, with Coeur’s evident dedication to the craft, and our second coffee shop stop of the day – Simple Coffee.

Like something out of a science fiction novel, the architecture was stellar. I was once again in a blissful -albeit, caffienated- state. We didn’t have a bite to eat, but their food looked DIVINE.

It was an enchanted 24 hours. Stumbling upon Église Saint-Jean de Montmartre – an aperitif in comparison to our next monument- we found ourselves enthralled by the architecture and carried onwards.

Following our stomachs, we traipsed through magic-filled streets, where accordions echoed, artists mused, and crowds grew and shrank in the grand Place du Tertre. Our friend from the roastery’s recommendation – Chez Eugene – rocked our world, and I would go so far to say I had the best meal of our Paris journey there. While we waited, we were approached by two charicature artists. Not knowing at the time the historical significance of the square, we certainly underestimated the cost of our drawings. Pro tip – make sure you have euros handy and only get one picture with two of you if you want to save money!

For our digestif, we walked to the Basilique du Sacré Coeur. Though I am not religious, it is undeniable that this cathedral will make you pause and admire the divine. At one point I whispered to Gabriel how magical it would be if we could witness the building echoing with a chorus. Moments later, singers gathered and filled the room with palpable enchantment.

We made our way back to our hotel, stopping for cheese (bien sur!), and we recollected our day as we faded into rest.

noteworthy: Superman Jesus in the Église Saint-Jean de Montmartre; a little boy burping during the choral music; lighting a votive for Joan of Arc; the whacky art/graffiti; the accordion player at the top of a massive flight of stairs (talk about a reward!); the numerous faces inlaid in walls seemingly at random; finding an ankle brace to steady my foot (LOVE when old injuries flare up!!!!); witnessing my sweet man in awe of the city.

Day Four

Our last full day in Paris was a busy one, beginning with a trip to the Louvre. We booked a tour, which I would recommend. That being said, ensure you know which line to get into, as there is (shockingly!) more than one lol. The Louvre holds so many pieces of art, history, inspiration, and wonder. It would take over two months to see everything. The tour narrowed the grandeur without making me feel overwhelmed. At the end of the tour, we went to visit our girl Mona. I found it ironic that the Mona Lisa has flocks of admirers all about her, but directly across her is Paolo Veronese’s The Wedding Feast in Cana. To me, this ginormous painting deserves at least half the attention Da Vinci’s stolen painting gets. Don’t get me wrong, the painting is worthy of admiration, but there is so much in the museum worth flocking to like a group of famished gulls.

After a few hours with our tour guide, we said à bientôt to the Louvre and went on our way to the Left Bank to Shakespeare and Company. Much like coffee, my desire for a good bookstore is important to attend to on any endeavour. Gabriel, being a wizard with words, has an adoration for literature and creative writing, so I thought where else better? Located across from Notre Dame, this is a sweet spot for book worms for French and English speakers alike (I would highly recommend checking out the booksellers along the Seine too!)

Tired, hangry, and ready to be back in our hotel, we set off. However, the bus we took cut the engine after one stop and the driver announced to all he was done, forcing everyone had to get off. Far from our hotel, we once again had to figure out our way back.

Despite this, I still would recommend using the buses, but be aware of the cultural expectations like saying bonjour, and the process to pay. Be ready to get lost, to find your bus stop when signage is unclear, and to enjoy the city at a leisurely pace.

Once we were back in our hotel, we rested and I devoured my cheese (p.s. blue cheese is v stinky lol).

Later that evening we journeyed to the Eiffel Tower to watch the lights glimmer from the Trocadéro esplanade. Much like the Louvre the Eiffel Tower is captured and talked about all the time. I still was blown away by the sheer colossal masterpiece that towered over us. On our way to catch the hourly glittery light show, the bus driver once again shooed us off – this was after we had found ourselves going the wrong way, and had to scramble to right ourselves. As if we were a part of a grand cosmic plan, the bus driver kicked us off right in front of the Arc de Triomphe. Maybe this evening wasn’t the pits, after all. Well, until the second bus driver went the wrong way…

Through the bus windows, I watched anxiously for the light show to begin while squished between many a tourist. Our plan to arrive at the Trocadéro esplanade was quickly failing. We shuffled out of the bus at the next stop, my heart hanging heavy in my chest, but when I turned around I saw that we were at the foot of the Eiffel Tower. Nothing could have been better.

We stopped for a Croque Monsieur for Gabriel after our chaotic journey (my belly still full from cheese). Our hearts were full and we were ready to leave Paris behind us to make our way to charming Switzerland.

noteworthy: all the cheese; so many bus blunders; sipping espresso while people-watching from a street-side café.

À bientôt!